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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.